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One of our Welsummers froze in the snow after accidentally stepping in some warm water I had just put out. I was checking on the birds every hour and found her in the snow and wind, literally frozen in place and unable to get back to the shelter of the coop. The frostbite on her legs was so severe she had to be culled.<\/p>\n
Some chicken keepers assume that frostbite is only a problem in northern regions with harsh winters. But frostbite can happen whenever temperatures drop below freezing and humidity is present. The lower the temperature and the higher the humidity, the bigger the risk.<\/p>\n
SIGNS OF FROSTBITE<\/h2>\n
Frostbite occurs when blood and moisture in tissues freeze. Look for these signs:<\/p>\n
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- gray, white, or yellowish tips on the comb or the edge of wattles, which can turn black days after exposure<\/li>\n
- reddish toes and feet<\/li>\n
- blistering, which can occur within 24 to 48 hours of exposure<\/li>\n
- listlessness and loss of appetite<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n
There are several stages of frostbite, just as there are several stages of burns.<\/p>\n
STAGE 1 <\/strong>is superficial frostbite, often called \u201cfrostnip,\u201d and birds typically make a full recovery.<\/p>\n
In STAGE 2<\/strong>, the skin hardens and freezes completely, but deep tissues aren\u2019t affected. In extreme frostbite cases, the affected area can become necrotic, which means the cells in the deeper tissues die completely. This is considered third- and fourth-degree frostbite. It\u2019s permanent and irreversible.<\/p>\n
It can take several weeks for necrotic tissue to present. The dead tissue will eventually blacken, shrivel up and fall off, causing intense pain to the bird.<\/p>\n
TREATMENT<\/h2>\n
Treating frostbite takes some care and patience.<\/p>\n
First, don\u2019t rub frostbite areas to restore circulation. This can do more harm than good, and it causes intense pain to the bird. Don\u2019t use a focused heat source (such as a hair dryer or heat pad) on the frostbitten area to rewarm the tissue.<\/p>\n
Instead, warm the area slowly if it\u2019s still frozen. Put the chicken\u2019s feet in warm water (not hot) for up to 20 minutes at a time. The comb and wattles can be unthawed with warm, damp cloths.<\/p>\n
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Frostbite can result in blisters that should not be popped. Photo by Heather Levin<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n Once the tissue is unfrozen, apply a wound spray such as Vetricyn, or a healing herbal wound salve that contains skin allies such as calendula. If blisters develop, don\u2019t pop them.<\/p>\n
Another treatment option is St. John\u2019s Wort oil, which is a fantastic natural wound healer and anti-inflammatory that will help alleviate pain, prevent infection, and speed healing. St. John\u2019s Wort oil is specific for burns, which is what frostbite essentially is (just with cold instead of heat). This oil should be applied topically to the frostbitten area at least twice daily.<\/p>\n
Keep the bird indoors in a warm room with food and water for several days. Don\u2019t let the bird walk on frostbitten legs, as this can worsen damage. Provide soft bedding in a crate that forces them to lie down and rest.<\/p>\n
HOW TO PREVENT FROSTBITE IN CHICKENS<\/h2>\n
Thankfully, there are several things you can do to prevent frostbite in your chickens.<\/p>\n
IMPROVE<\/strong> VENTILATION:<\/strong> Chickens generate moisture constantly when they\u2019re inside the coop from breathing and droppings. And it\u2019s this moisture, coupled with cold temperatures, that causes frostbite.<\/p>\n
It\u2019s essential that your coop has good ventilation all year, but it\u2019s particularly important during the winter months. Vents near the ceiling are best to help prevent moisture build-up.<\/p>\n
CLEAN<\/strong> THE<\/strong> COOP:<\/strong> Keeping your coop clean during the winter is an essential part of preventing frostbite. Chicken droppings are mostly water, and when those droppings accumulate in the coop humidity levels rise.<\/p>\n
An easy way to keep an eye on temperature and humidity levels in the coop is to purchase a wireless outdoor digital thermometer. Putting the sensor on the wall, right at roost height, can give you a clear picture of the internal environment and help you take action when temperatures drop and humidity rises. If you purchase a wireless digital thermometer, just make sure that the range of the device and the sensor will reach from the coop to your home.<\/p>\n
Opinions differ on what humidity levels should be in the coop. The Department of Poultry Science at the University of Georgia recommends coop humidity levels of 50% to 70%.<\/p>\n
If you do the deep-litter method during the winter, turn the bedding regularly and apply a dry top layer.<\/p>\n
PROVIDE<\/strong> WIDE ROOST<\/strong> POLES:<\/strong> Providing your chickens with wide roost poles can also help prevent frostbite on toes and feet because chickens are able to use their entire body to cover their feet during the night. Wooden roost poles that are 3 to 4 inches wide or wider are ideal for winter roosting.<\/p>\n